Perfect Fit

Making rapid progress on the Hunting "Frock" Coat. Just have the lining, adding the sleeves and dealing with the cuffs & neckline to go. Oh & the button holes, endless button holes.

Above is the documentation for the nearly 3" bodice length change I had to make for the coat to fit nicely and for the side & back vents to hit at my hips (oh you should see the swish!).

Because of the curve of the skirts and the way the vents are constructed, the only choice I had for the alteration was to lift through the shoulders. Thankfully according to reports the armscyes on the pattern are entirely too big for the sleeves. After taking up the 3" I still have plenty of space, the under arm actually matches the underarm on my stays perfectly. I also mocked up the sleeves and checked before cutting the shoulders and this alteration makes the sleeves fit the space perfectly.

The biggest hold back so far as been the lack of good thread. I have a spool of blue in 80/3, lovely stuff to sew with, however, I didn't like the look of the blue top stitching on the tan coat.

Instead I've used some of the beige colored thread from Jas. Townsend. Crap! Total utter crap. It's not plied so it breaks. Actually it doesn't break, it shreds and pulls apart into this fuzzy mess. Terrible. I struggled through using it on the pock flaps just to get them done & I'm tossing the rest. Instead I ordered a bunch more of the similar good quality thread from Threadneedle Street in a selection of colors for all the up coming projects.

Despite the hastle with the thread, I actually enjoyed my first try at prick stitching. Now ask me that again when I've pricked the entire coat front, side & back vents to the lining & I might have a different story. I've also added buckram along the front to keep it smooth & some to the cuffs to keep them nice & bold.

Now, I'm back to the dungeon. I'm going to whip up the matching tan wool petticoat to go with this coat. Nothing fancy, just knife pleats & my standard linen tape waistband.