Day one of the 4 day Polonaise Gown project was spent cutting and fitting the lining. Not much exciting to report really. I dressed Sticky in my stays but left off the other undergarments since they were still in the laundry from last weekends event.
The process is fairly self explanitory.
To start I cut the pattern template at the "shorten or lengthen here" line. I know from experience that I have a short torso and will need to shorten the body. I laid the top half of the back pattern piece where I wanted the top of the gown to be (in line with the top of my stays). Next I laid the bottom half where I wanted the bottom to end, also in line with my stays. The resulting 2" overlap is taped & the same measurements done with the front pattern piece. The finished pattern is used to cut the liner & outer bodice.
The first sewing step is to stitch the center back seam. Then the front/side piece is fit around to the back sides. Concave to convex curves are met & adjusted as needed. I took off a bit more around the armpits and across both the back neckline & the front neckline. Even with the adjustments to the torso length both were higher than I wanted them.
In the fitting around I had to take a small tuck near the back of the armpit to keep the lining snug. I was a little worried that I would have to do a similar tuck in the outer in order to get a snug fit. Part of me didn't want to sew the tuck in the liner but in the end I bit the bullet and went with it, choosing to worry about the outer when I got to that point.
After the entire thing was sewn & pinned together in the front I took my amazing fancy iron to it. With the help of the upright steam setting I got the linen lining nice and smooth & snug around Sticky and my stays.
The process is fairly self explanitory.
To start I cut the pattern template at the "shorten or lengthen here" line. I know from experience that I have a short torso and will need to shorten the body. I laid the top half of the back pattern piece where I wanted the top of the gown to be (in line with the top of my stays). Next I laid the bottom half where I wanted the bottom to end, also in line with my stays. The resulting 2" overlap is taped & the same measurements done with the front pattern piece. The finished pattern is used to cut the liner & outer bodice.
The first sewing step is to stitch the center back seam. Then the front/side piece is fit around to the back sides. Concave to convex curves are met & adjusted as needed. I took off a bit more around the armpits and across both the back neckline & the front neckline. Even with the adjustments to the torso length both were higher than I wanted them.
In the fitting around I had to take a small tuck near the back of the armpit to keep the lining snug. I was a little worried that I would have to do a similar tuck in the outer in order to get a snug fit. Part of me didn't want to sew the tuck in the liner but in the end I bit the bullet and went with it, choosing to worry about the outer when I got to that point.
After the entire thing was sewn & pinned together in the front I took my amazing fancy iron to it. With the help of the upright steam setting I got the linen lining nice and smooth & snug around Sticky and my stays.
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